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I am sometimes confused as to how to determine the weight of the sinker that I should use. Every sinker, lead head, or jig comes in every fraction or weight. How do I know which one to use? These are the points I understand so far:

1) Match the weight to what your fishing rod is designed to handle.
2) Use heavier weight to punch down through thick and heavy growth.

Aside from that, I have heard that I should keep weight as low as possible to slow decent as a slow decent is more appealing to a bass. Is this true?

So, how would I determine what weight to use for a texas rig, a jig, or, a lead head for a tube.

Also, I understand that it's a different presentation from the ones above, but why does a carolina rig typically use such a heavy sinker?

I know I'm asking a lot, so, thanks in advance for your time on this one...

Before you consider what rod your going to use, you must match the weight to the water conditions. Are you fishing current or deep areas? That would likely have you increasing your weight. Vegetation may also have you doing this to punch through it. Shallow slow current areas may have you putting on less weight. Decide what bait you will fish in these areas and then you should pick out your rod. If you do it the other way around, you may short change yourself.....ie: you opt for a 7 foot trigger rod MH with a 3/8oz bullet weight and a Texas rigged worm. This set up may be great for some situations and not so great for others. This set up may prevent you form throeing certain baits or lighter weights. I always try to consider the baits I want to throw and the waters I'm fishing before making the decision.

Rob,

Great questions and hello from NY. I hope Virginia is treating you well?

Weight is a bit tricky, the easy answer is to say "Let the bass key you in on what they want".

Let's start by looking at some of the basic scenarios you will encounter:

Who ever told you to go with as little weight as possible, gave you some good advice. Let's expand on that a bit though. Where are the fish you are trying to catch feeding? On the bottom? In the water column? Just below the surface? In a different lake then you are fishing? (Just kidding)

The goal is to keep the bait in the strike zone, right? So if they are on the bottom, you need to make sure you have enough weight to get your lure down to the fish and keep it there. The biggest mistake I see the novice to intermediate fishermen make is not using enough weight when fishing the bottom. Half of the time, their lure is floating, or dragging 3-6 feet off the bottom and they don’t even realize it. You want to be able to feel what your lure is doing down there at all times. Use your lure as if it were an extension of your finger tips and try to draw a mental picture of what the bottom is composed of. If your lure is not able to keep in contact with the bottom, how are you supposed to feel what is down there?

With the Carolina Rig, people use the heaviest weight possible, because the weight and lure are separated from each other. (I hear they might even be getting a divorce)

Matching the right weight, to the right lure, for the right depth and the right situation is not as difficult as it sounds. Let’s break it up by zone (Just Below the surface, in the water column & the bottom)

Here are some basic rules to follow that will consistently put fish on your stringer when fishing the T-rig, Tube, Grub, Jig & soft plastics:

When fish are feeding just below the surface, or ultra shallow (2 feet or less) you want the slowest fall possible and the least amount of splash when the bait hits the water. So with your 6’6” Medium-heavy action Spinning rod, with your 2000 series Shimano reel spooled with 8lb test, you can get away with “NO” added weight for most of your soft plastics 4” or bigger. (I helped Rob pick out his rod and reel) Add weight when the wind or current starts to interfere with the lures ability to fall naturally. The slow fall keeps the bait in the strike-zone longer.

When fishing the bottom from 2-6 feet deep, Start with 1/8 and add weight as the wind or current increases.

When fishing the bottom from 6’-20’, start with ¼ ounce and add weight as the wind or current increases.

When fishing the bottom from 21’ and greater, start with 3/8-1/2 ounce and add weight as the wind or current increases.

Remember that the bulkier the lure, the more resistance it will have when falling. So a plastic worm will not need as much weight as some of these creature type lures.

Everything else will be adjustments to cover, structure and bottom composition. (i.e. Heavy weed on sunny days – ½ to 1 ounce so you can get down and through the thick stuff)

In the water column, it’s up for grabs. Your best bet is to have everything from 1/8 to 1 ounce tied on. I will say this, big Smallies, in the heat of the summer, in open water like the lure to fall really fast… like a stone. Heavy, heavy, heavy… did I mention heavy?

But always remember that the details I outlined will work 90% of the time… you’ll have to pay attention and experiment the other 10% of the time to find out what the bass are looking for. It’s figuring out that other 10% that separate the good anglers from the great ones…

BC

Rob, great question. All of the above answers are good, these guys know their stuff.
Here are my comments. When using a curly tail worm, I prefer a weight that will drag the bait down quickly, this causes the tail to really vibrate and wiggle, usually, except for current areas, a 1/4 ounce bullet weight will do nicely. With straight worms I use a 3/16th ounce most of the time. In very heavy cover, a 3/8 to 1/2 ounce weight may be needed. For tubes, I like a weight that allows the tube to sink and spiral slowly, except when smallmouth fishing, then I use a heavier weight, smallmouth and Kentucky bass are more aggressive and quicker, so I jerk the tube along the bottom.
As for the C-rig, we use heavy weights to maintain contact with the bottom, you an feel any change in bottom content through the rod tip. The heavy weight also kicks up mud and debris which must resemble a crawfish feeding which excites the bass.
Don't over-look split shot when fishing. Split shot sinkers will allow a slow fall or fast depending on the number and size added. Many times in shallow water I use split shot as a Texas rig, adding and subtracting as depths change.
Basically, I use split shot, 3/16-1/4 , 3/8 and 1/2 ounce bullet sinkers. 1/2 ounce to 1 full ounce barrel sinkers (C-rig)
Same weights apply to tube jig heads, with an ocassional 1/8th used. Good luck, thanks for visiting the site, Johnnie

Rob,
All of the above replys are, as they say in England, spot on. Of course, Johnnie's reply is very close to what I feel, as we fish the same type of water, and in the same ways.

My starting point is normally 3/16 ounce, and it is fished 90% of the time. However, when going to a finesse worm with a lead head jig, I will often go down to an 1/8, and even as low as a 1/16.

The saying of using the lightest sinker possible is definitely true. However, as said in all the postings there are a lot of conditions to consider, including what the bass are telling you.

I've fished my 3/16 ounce in the front of the boat, while my partner was fishing the identical lure with an 1/8 ounce in the back of the boat. When he started out fishing me I looked at all the differences including presentation, line size and color, and so on. Since the weight was the only significant difference I soon downsized. The fish started hitting, as they wanted a slower fall. In this case the fish were telling me what they wanted.
Best of fishing,
Dan